Forever Victoriana

San Francisco Chronicle

Fashion's fascination with Victoriana never fades away. From Karl Lagerfeld to Zac Posen, from Japan to New York, ruffles and lace are very much with us. On his fall 2009 runway, Posen played with high necklines, puffed shoulders, lavenders and grays; and lace-up boots from Alexander Wang and Bottega Veneta are as current as today's date. For his fall 2009 Chanel show, Lagerfeld created frilly white and black chiffon detachable cuffs and collars that were an immediate hit and were nearly impossible to obtain once they hit the stores.

L'Wren Scott bolero, $2,495, Stella McCartney eyelet blouse, $995, Barneys. Juicy Couture black chain necklace, $98, Bloomingdale's San Francisco. Silver and chrysoprase pigeon claw ring, $382, Paxton Gate, San Francisco. Christian Louboutin red suede boots, $1,195, Barneys. Plaid skirt and black petticoat rented from the American Conservatory Theater.

Young Japanese hipsters love lots of frills and lace, an integral part of the "Lolita" look, which, despite the provocative name, is less come-hither teenager and far more evocative of a young girl circa 1860. Hollywood checked in this holiday season with two big Victorian-era movies: "The Young Victoria," the lush mid-1800s costume drama starring Emily Blunt, and "Sherlock Holmes," set in London in 1891, starring Robert Downey Jr.

There's a lot to like about the fashions of that era; thankfully, we've gotten beyond the constricting corsets, top-heavy hats, boned bodices and bustles, but there's no arguing with a beautifully cut tweed jacket for him or an exquisite lace blouse for her.

"The clothes are so detail oriented - people just love them," says John Hadeed, co-owner of Torso Vintage in Union Square, which carries authentic Victorian garments.

Incorporating elements into your existing wardrobe can be as simple as adding a cameo brooch to a blouse or a large oval locket on a long gold chain. Or wear lots of black: The Victorians took death very seriously, with elaborate mourning rituals and clothing, and were fascinated by curiosities such as taxidermy and skulls. Victorian-like baubles, both romantic and macabre, are plentiful at the flea market, and estate jewelry stores carry the real deal, as does Barneys New York, which sells the Olivia Collings line of antique jewelry. You can find the real silks and velvets of the era at Torso.

"Most everything from that era is trimmed with jet beads, lace, braids or ruffles," says Hadeed. "That's what Victoriana is all about."

Take a ruffled Victorian top and pair it with skinny jeans or a pencil skirt for a modern take, he says. "There's a tribe of people who love Victorian clothes," Hadeed says. "There's just something about it."